The bathroom mirror cabinet is a simple and inexpensive addition to your other bathroom or bathroom furniture that can increase the sense of light and space in the room, give you an easy-to-reach mirror for shaving or using make-up, and accommodate your medicines. , beauty products or other opportunities and goals.
Installing a cabinet on your wall sounds simple, but what is it?
Think about where you want the cabinet to be. Above the basin is a popular place, if you choose bathroom furniture with a mirror door; above the toilet is another place where you can make use of the wasted wall space. Think about who will use the cabinet (and if there are children whose access you want to limit) when determining the best location and height for your cabinet.
The first step is measuring. This stage is crucial to your success: if you don't measure accurately, you may have to drill more than once, and you can also find that your cabinet, after being secured to the wall, does not hang properly. So measure, then double check your measurements. Hold, or ask the helper to hold, the cabinet in its correct place on the wall. Use the spirit level to get a really straight cabinet, then draw a pencil line at the top. This line will be hidden from view once the cabinet is in place, if you install bathroom furniture so that the top is above the eyes.
Measure from the top of the cabinet to the mounting hole. If your cabinet is not yet vintage convex mirror equipped with pre-drill mounting holes, you must drill it yourself, strengthen the cabinet if necessary to ensure that the hole does not break with the weight of the cabinet and the contents when the cabinet is fixed remain in place; Most stores buy bathroom furniture provided pre-drilled to facilitate installation for customers. Measure the distance between fixing holes, too. All your measurements must take the center of the mounting hole (not the edge) as the point you are measuring.
Next, measure down from the top line on your wall to the level of the mounting hole. Mark the wall at this point, and measure horizontally along this new line to make sure your mounting holes are in the right place, both in relation to one another and in relation to surrounding items. If you want the cabinet to be above your basin, in the center of the available space, then measure the space from side to side, find the center point, and measure the appropriate amount on each side of the center to mark your mounting holes, to make sure the center of your cabinet will hang in the middle of the room. Don't assume that the pre-drilled mounting holes will be the same distance from the center of the bathroom furniture - check!
Now it's time to secure the fixings on your wall from where to hang your cabinet. You must use different techniques to fix bathroom furniture to stone and plaster walls, stud walls, and dry lined walls.
On masonry walls (bricks or beams), covered with plaster, make sure you use screws that are long enough so that the wall itself, not plaster, supports the weight of the bathroom furniture. Drill your holes, plug the plug in the wall, then attach it to the wall plug: this should provide a strong installation in many cases. Try to make sure, if you Antiqued convex mirror can, that you are drilling bricks or blocks rather than into a mortar between them, which will be softer and less supportive. Carefully drill into the blockwork, which is often softer than bricks, to avoid excessive enlargement of holes, and use special wall plugs for this type of wall.
Walling studs are plasterboard mounted on a vertical wooden stand (or stud). Materials for your bathroom furniture should be included in the stud because the plasterboard alone will not be strong enough to support the weight of the cabinet. Find the position of the stud by tapping on the wall: the area with the stud behind it will sound solid while other areas of the wall will sound blank when you knock. The screw can be mounted directly to the wall; no need wall plugs.
Dry wall walls are walls where plasterboard is mounted on the blockwork wall with a lump of adhesive so that it moves away from the blockwork surface. Cutting small pieces of plasterboard around each mounting hole and screwing the wooden 'spacer', placed in this gap, to the wall behind means that behind the screw you will have a solid wood base that is secure against solid blockwork that will support the screw because it holds the weight of the room furniture your shower. If you do not do this, the weight of the cabinet can cause an unsupported surface to become d
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